![]() The blades sometimes have this much run out in the teeth. Now it is perfectly operational and cuts as true as my shop contractor saw (to the 64th) but weighs a quarter of it. This of course made the fence over a 16th off on the far end, when compared to the miter slot. Mine was bad enough when it arrived that the rack and pinion fence was setup a tooth off to compensate for it. It seems that during construction of the motor carriage that the workers get sloppy with tool setup and the holes and rivets are punched around 3/32nd off. I set mine with a 1/64th walk out and the back end of the fence to stop binding and the rack and pinion holds true to it. It seems like this is a common problem with the saw and I wanted a zero clearance plate anyway Make sure you get the good one there are a couple of cheap ones, check the reviews. My options where to take a file to the throat plate or buy a zero clearance which I did through Amazon. Still I was not able to bring it over enough. I adjusted mine completely over and had to loosen all the screws on the front cover plate and plastic saw base, also the motor carriage bolts. The first thing anyone should do when setting the saw up is aligning the blade to the miter slot and running the blade over to 45 degrees and making sure the throat plate has proper clearance.
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